Slabs As A Life Lesson

My lunch consists of devil hummus and cardboard crisp breads.  This exquisite feast is eaten everyday at my desk to fuel my rabid search for new and interesting surf related internet content.  A huge amount of my lunch hour is allocated to finding new surf photos.  The big 3 can usually be relied upon for having at least one new photo feature between them per day (you know who the big 3 are, I just can’t bring myself to mention their names and provide links, it would make me feel dirty).  But nothing I’ve found in the last few months has instigated froth.  Although the images are generally beautiful, they do nothing for me.  This got me thinking of why my emotional reaction to a picture of a big blue tropical barrel is the same as to a painting of Nick Faldo.  Insomuch as there isn’t one, it just creates nothingness inside.


It’s because the barrel picture is perfect and therefore relates to nothing in my life.  The pictures of perfection are meant to instill awe and make us yearn for such a wave, in such a location.  But it doesn’t have that effect on me.  It makes me numb and creates a silence within the confines of my body, just like Nick Faldo does.  I realize I crave imperfection in my waves.  I crave the idea of waves that I could find in the life I’m living right now (minus the 5 hour journey to get to them).  Not shit wind driven slop obviously, but semi decent waves, imperfect and attainable.   I’m jolted from my work coma by an image of Dane punting skyward from an onshore chunk of ocean, not Machado soul lining another perfect Indonesian turquoise tunnel.  This train of thought leads me to the train wreck of imperfect waves; the mutant slab.  These things make me book my next ferry ticket and start to dream of cold, concussion causing shorebreaks or burly, on shore wedges of death.

Imperfection rules my surfing world and my world in general.  Let’s fucking stop the pursuit of perfection in all that we do, it numbs us to reality and closes us off from what we have all around us.  Imperfection is real and the act of embracing it is a promise to make the most of what we have, not yearn for what we don’t.

Fuerte freight train

Fuerte freight train

Fuerte slab of fury

Fuerte slab of fury

Australian chunk

Australian chunk


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